Practising For The Timed Assessment - As The Stylist

In this week's practical lesson I was practising my partner's hair design for next week's timed assessment. There were parts of the design that I thought were easy to create and other parts that I struggled with. During the practise session it became clear that  some areas of the design did not work and therefore it changed slightly to give the desired effect and work with my model's hair.

Practise

Practise 

My Contemporary Hair Design

I decided that in my design the whole head of hair is going to be crimped. I think that this is an important part of Elizabethan style and it appears many times within Elizabethan portraiture and is also a good way of getting volume and texture within the hair. I have also seen crimped hair in contemporary situations for example on the red carpet and catwalk, showing that it can be seen as both traditional and contemporary. I also wanted to have padding in my hair design as it is a technique that we have practised repeatedly during the lessons and I like the effect and height that it can give hair styles. This height was very important within Elizabethan portraiture. I have decided to put the padding on the top of the head and have the hair from the front of the head being wrapped over it and gathered as a ponytail at the back. The ponytail will then be fish tail plaited and tucked back under itself as seen in the image below. I think that fishtail plaits are also very beautiful and have recently become a popular alternative form of plait. I wanted to incorporate this into the back of my design to add some interest and detail. I also liked the idea of adding a head band of some kind into my design to act as a more contemporary French Hood. This will be decorated with pearls as they feature heavily in Elizabethan portriature within the hair.

Fishtail Plait Tucked Up

My Hair Design

My Hair Design 

Hair Accessories Inspiration

For my contemporary design I want to add a hair band decorated with pearls. Although I want to create my own design I have been researching images of bands already created to get some inspiration. I have also been researching and looking at images where pearls have been added to the hair. 

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/123637952242140078/

http://www.yourcoffeebreak.co.uk/beauty/25640840621/summer-wedding-hairstyles-from-leo-bancroft/

http://glambistro.com/10235/5-posh-ways-to-wear-headbands/

http://beadsnob.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/chanelpearl.html

Ursula Stephens

Ursula Stephens is a celebrity hair stylist and has worked with some of pop's most famous women including Rihanna and Mary J Blige, and some of the most famous photographers including Mert and Marcus. She has also created hair for numerous magazine front covers. I have been studying her work and have found different styles that to me resemble Elizabethan hair. I will take her work in consideration when designing my contemporary Elizabethan look.

Sources: http://www.ursulastephen.com/about/

Ursula Stephen Hair
http://www.ursulastephen.com/beauty/

Inspiration

As well as contemporary hair I have also been studying the hair styles that were seen within Elizabethan portraiture, this has helped me to keep my ideas Elizabethan based without straying into unrecognisable contemporary designs. I particually like this painting of Anne Boleyn in which she is wearing a French Hood. I like the idea of adding an accessory into the hair within my design, and this French Hood has acted as inspiration.

Anne Boleyn
 http://www.theanneboleynfiles.com/anne-boleyn-french-hood-now-available/
   

Inspiration

After doing research of contemporary Elizabethan hair I found this image. To me it represents traditional fashions and trends but gives it a more up to date look. I think it is a style that I will bear in mind when creating my final design. It also reminded me of the hair in the portrait below of Queen Elizabeth I where the loose pieces of hair they have been plaited.

http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/236x/23/f9/73/23f9730a2b2d67a780702ab1589ebc31.jpg

https://historyofeuropeanfashion.wordpress.com

Hair Washing

Prepping for Washing

Towel around the clients shoulders

Gown

Check water temperature on wrist

If model has thin hair use a small amount of conditioner- can always add more

If dry use less shampoo- can always add more

Condition the mid lengths and ends of hair

1. Get client to lean their head back into the sink

2. Dampen the hair all the way through

3. Put some shampoo in your hand, with the size according to the type of hair.

4. Add it into the ends of the hair and massage it through the top of the hair and the scalp.

5. Make sure you go up under the hair to clean all the head.

6. If the shampoo is not lathering then add some water to try to help it.

7. If this is not working add some more shampoo to the hair.

8. Rinse the shampoo thoroughly. 

9. Add conditioner to the hair focusing on the ends of the hair.

10. Comb the hair while the conditioner is in it, this will help to get through knots.

11. Thoroughly wash out the conditioner and wrap the hair in a towel.

Contra Indindications and Contra Actions

Contra Indication

A Contra Indication may prevent or stop treatment from taking place

For example

•     Heavy dandruff
•   Alopecia
•  Psoriasis

Contra Action

Something that happens during washing or styling that has to be dealt with

For example

•   A burn from a hot tool
•       Reaction to a product

Hair Consultations

Ask the models name

Ask what type of hair model has so you can treat it accordingly

Analyse the length of hair, ask if the hair is real or fake

Ask if the hair is coloured or if is natural, if it is coloured you may need to treat it differently, for example putting tools such as curlers on a cooler setting. Also see if hair is dry

Ask if the model has any allergies, this can therefore help you if you need to find alternative products

Ask if the model is on medication, this can alter and effect the hair

Practicing My Contemporary Looks

In this week's lesson we were practicing contemporary looks. I began by carrying out one of my original ideas, which can be seen in the first image. However I thought that once it was actually created on the head it was not a very interesting look and I didn't think that it linked well enough to the Elizabethans. I then decided to try to add a fishtail braid to the design, but I wanted it to look neat and  add some interest to the back of the hair. As previously posted I had found one look involving a fishtail plait and wanted to draw inspiration from that. After a few different tries and looks I decided I was most pleased with the plait pictured below.

Hair Style Experimentation 

The Plait Style I liked The Most 

Inspiration

I have been researching different contemporary hair looks that to me resemble Elizabethan hair styles. These images have acted as inspiration when creating and designing my hair looks.

This acted as inspiration for me as it incorporated a plait and bun, both of which I have been learning about, and regularly appears in Elizabethan portraiture.  https://www.pinterest.com/hairofglory/hairstyles/

I liked this image as the whole thing reminded me of the Elizabethans, it also incorporates a head band which I also am interested in using in my design. http://www.hairromance.com/2013/02/nyfw-hair-trend-braids.html

I like this image as it instantly reminded me of the Elizabethans, I like the texture that has been gained in the hair and I think it is something that I might like to use in my design. http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/high-roller-by-pascual

This image straight away reminded me of the Elizabethans mostly due to the make up, however I like the hair and think it is a nice contemporary version of Elizabethan style, I will keep this design in mind when creating my look. http://www.theenglishgroup.co.uk/blog/2012/07/31/laura-carmichael-by-mert-marcus/

Practising Elizabethan Hair Styles

In this week's practical lesson we continued to practise traditional Elizabethan styles. This week was the first week that I managed to complete a look as I normally struggle with adding the padding. I am please that I finished but know from looking at the images that I need to continue practising. However I know now that I have the basic skills to build on.

Adding Padding To The Hair

In this week's lesson we were learning how to add padding into crimped hair so that different styles and looks could be achieved, such as crowns of hair and heart shapes, such as the style below.

Heart Hair
http://onehotchildinthecity.blogspot.co.uk/2010/01/i-heart-hair-hearts.html

Method: 

If required curl the front sections of hair, 2-3 lines

Crimp the rest of the hair or half a head

Lift up the hair to find where the anchor point should go

French plait the area and twist back on itself onto the head, add Kirby grips

Get the padding and attach it to the plait tightly piercing the tight

Wrap the crimped hair around the padding and pin using Kirby grips

If you are not using a lot of hair you can also start wrapping from the bottom 

If you want to do a heart shape, add the padding onto the side of the head and wrap over

Can plait the back of the hair if required 

Elizabethan Society, Who Is Wearing These Hairstyles?

In the Elizabethan era look and style were very important. It was mainly the people from the higher classes who opted for the latest hair looks during this time. In the book 'Fashions In Hair The First Five Thousand Years' by Richard Corson it says how blonde and light hair was a fashionable look and describes how it was achieved. It also discusses the problems with this trend such as hair becoming weak at the root, due to the use of harsh chemicals, and breaking off. He then goes on to say how 'Working-class women were, of course, spared all this.'

Young and single women within high society usually wore their hair down and uncovered to show that they were single and pure.

Wigs and many other hair pieces were used to add length, density and shape to the hair. Accessories such as coifs and french hoods were also popular during this time period. They could be used to add a look to hair but also to cover it, as usually done by grown and married women.

Coifs

A coif is a hair covering using a close fitting cap. It could be very simple or very elaborate. According to the website 'elizabethancostume.net' it had a very important role for society as 'conferring respectability upon women, and for the more skilled and affluent people, for decoration.'

A Coif
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/coif.html

French Hood

A french hood was a piece of material fashioned into a rounded shape, it was worn over the top of a coif, and a large black veil was attached to the back. Anne Boleyn introduced it into England during the tudor period. 

Anne Boleyn In A French Hood
http://www.theanneboleynfiles.com/anne-boleyn-french-hood-now-available/