Bibliography

Bibliography:

Books:

Charles Worthington. (2006). The Complete Book Of Hairstyling. Carlton Books LTD

Grant McCracken. (1996). Big Hair A Journey Into The Transformation Of Self. Overlook Press

Richard Corson. (2005). Fashions In Hair The First Five Thousand Years. Peter Owen Publishers

Websites:

Ursula Stephen ,2014, About, Available At:

http://www.ursulastephen.com/about/ Accessed on [25/11/14]

Linda Alkin, The Tudors, Available At:

www.sixwivesinfo.com Accessed on [24/10/14]

Image Websites:

Suket-Teqi Blogspot.com, 202, Cute Braid Hopefullly You ve Never Seen Before, Cute Braids Girls Beauty, Available At:

http://suket-teqi.blogspot.co.uk/2012/09/cute-braid-girls-beauty.html Accessed on [24/10/14]

Hair Romance, 2013,Christian Sirano NYFW Hair Trend, Available At:

http://www.hairromance.com/2013/02/nyfw-hair-trend-braids.html Accessed on [24/10/2014]

Pintrest, French Braid Sock Bun, Available At:

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/432627107926586438/ Accessed on [24/10/2014]

Pintrest, Queen Elizabeth, C, 1590, artist unknown, French Farthingales, Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/drealeed/french-farthingales/ Accessed on: [4/12/2014]

HJi, 2014, Pearl Queen Rita Ora Scora Double Whammy, Available at: http://www.hji.co.uk/hair/pearly-queen-rita-ora-chanel-hair/ Accessed on: [24/10/2014]

Liverpool Museums, ‘Queen Elizabeth I – The Pelican Portrait’ Nicholas Hilliard, Popular images, Available on http://www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/about/services/photography/popular-images.aspx Accessed on [24/10/2014]

HJi, 2013, Dolce and Gabanna Accessorized updos, Reinventing the classics: Designers with Signature Catwalk Styles Available at:

http://www.hji.co.uk/hair/reinventing-the-classics-designers-with-signature-catwalk-hairstyles/ Accessed on: [24/10/2014]

History Of Costume, 2012, Rocco [ruh-KOH-koh]: florid of excessively elaborate, Available on:

https://historyofeuropeanfashion.wordpress.com Accessed on [24/10/2014]

Hair Extension World, 2012,Ponytails and feathers catwalk 2012, Hair by Gucci Hair stylist Luigi Murenu, Available At:

https://aheadofhairextensions.wordpress.com/2012/09/18/ponytails-and-feathers-catwalk-2012/  Accessed on [24/10/2014]

Elizabethan Costume, Tudor and Elizabethan Coifs, Available At:

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/coif.html Accessed on:                [7/11/2014]

The Anne Boleyn Files, 2009, Anne Boleyn, Anne Boleyn French Hood Now Available, Available at:

http://www.theanneboleynfiles.com/anne-boleyn-french-hood-now-available/ Accessed on: [7/11/2-14]

Hot Child In The City, 2010, I Heart Hair Hearts, Available At:

http://onehotchildinthecity.blogspot.co.uk/2010/01/i-heart-hair-hearts.html Accessed on [25/11/2014]

Pintrest, Step by Step hair weave instructions, Hairstyles, Available At:

https://www.pinterest.com/hairofglory/hairstyles/  Accessed on: [25/11/2014]

Hair Romance, 2013,Alice and Olivia NYFW Hair Trend, Available At:

http://www.hairromance.com/2013/02/nyfw-hair-trend-braids.html Accessed on; [25/11/2014]

Trend Hunter Fashion, 2011, Teased Elizabethan Tutorials, Available At:

http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/high-roller-by-pascual Accessed on [25/11/2014]

The English Group, 2012, Laura Carmichael by Mert and Marcus, Available at:

http://www.theenglishgroup.co.uk/blog/2012/07/31/laura-carmichael-by-mert-marcus/ Accessed on [25/11/2014]

History Of Costume, 2012, Rocco [ruh-KOH-koh]: florid of excessively elaborate, Available on:

https://historyofeuropeanfashion.wordpress.com Accessed on [25/11/2014]

Red Hair Pigtail plaits, Available At:

http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/236x/23/f9/73/23f9730a2b2d67a780702ab1589ebc31.jpg Accessed on: [25/11/2014]

Ursula Stephens, 2014, beauty, Available At:

http://www.ursulastephen.com/beauty/ Accessed on: [25/11/2014]

The Anne Boleyn Files, 2009, Anne Boleyn, Anne Boleyn French Hood Now Available, Available at:

http://www.theanneboleynfiles.com/anne-boleyn-french-hood-now-available/ Accessed on: [25/11/2014]

Pintrest, 2013, ELVINA Bridal Headband, Freshwater pearls and Rhinestone Bridal headband, Available at:

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/123637952242140078/ Accessed on: [25/11/2014]

You’re coffee break, 2012, Beauty Summer wedding hairstyles from Leo Bancroft, Available at:

http://www.yourcoffeebreak.co.uk/beauty/25640840621/summer-wedding-hairstyles-from-leo-bancroft/ Accessed on: [25/11/2104]

Glambistro, 2013, 5 posh ways to wear headbands, Available at:

http://glambistro.com/10235/5-posh-ways-to-wear-headbands/ Accessed on [25/11/2-14]

Bead Snob, 2013, Chanel Pearl Hair Band, Available at:

http://beadsnob.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/chanelpearl.html Accessed on [25/11/2014]

Queen Anne Boleyn, 2014, The Phoenix Portrait, Nicholas Hilliard, QAB book review: THE MARRIAGE GAME by Alison Weir, Available at:

http://queenanneboleyn.com/2014/06/26/qab-book-review-the-marriage-game-by-alison-weir/ Accessed on [4/12/2014]

Vintage Vicar, My Hair Featured In A Catwalk Show, Available at:

http://vintagevicar22.wordpress.com/2013/02/12/my-hair-featured-in-catwalk-show/ Accessed on: [4/12/2014]

Awesome Stories, A portrait of Queen Elizabeth I of England, Available at:

https://www.awesomestories.com/asset/view/A-Portrait-of-Elizabeth-I-of-England Accessed on [4/12/2014]

HJi, 2011, Big hair at Berlin fashion week, Available at:

http://www.hji.co.uk/hair/big-hair-at-berlin-fashion-week/ Accessed on [4/12/2014]

Treasure Hunt, 2012, It’s girls of the Elizabethan hair, Available at:

http://nttreasurehunt.wordpress.com/2012/11/20/it-girls-of-the-elizabethan-age/ Accessed on: [4/12/2014]

Trend Hunter, 2010, Afro Chic Runways, Available at:

http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/topshop-unique-spring-2011 Accessed on: [4/12/2014] 

Final Project Evaluation

This project was challenging but enjoyable for me as it allowed me to see a progression and improvement in my practical abilities. My research for this project began by looking at traditional Elizabethan hairstyles; I used the Internet as well as reading books. As the brief was to create a contemporary look I also studied contemporary versions. I looked mostly at catwalk shows and photo-shoots where I could see a link to the Elizabethans. The main challenge that I faced in this project was coming up with my own design. I struggled initially in coming up with an idea and my early original designs did little in resembling Elizabethan hair. In the end my favourite element of my design, the plait at the back, was stumbled upon by accident when tying my model's hair up for her walk home. During the beginning of the project my practical ability let me down, however by the end, after practices, this no longer seemed to be a problem. My design incorporated a decorated hair band but after decoration it was too small to fit around my head. Redoing the piece and changing the positions of the pearls that were on it overcame this design fault.  Working to my partner's brief was challenging for me as at the beginning I struggled with the design. I also did not want to disappoint the designer. There were elements of it however that could not work due to the length of the model's hair but this was overcome by changing the design slightly. This therefore made the style easier for me and consequently I was pleased with the final result. Overall I think this was an enjoyable project and it has increased my passion and made me eager to learn more. 

Timed Assessment In The Role Of The Designer

In this week's timed assessment my hair design was being carried out by my partner. In this assessment I think that my design was carried out really well. Before the assessment my stylist was keen to practise my design and understand my aims and the results that I wanted to achieve. My design had many different aspects including a variety of plaits, padding, crimping and backcombing. My favourite part of the design and the area that I think was carried out the best was the fishtail plait at the back. I think that it was neat and added interest to the back of the hair. I also think that the front section of my hair, which was wrapped around the padding, was also executed well as I think that it had a nice texture and a good shape. Although I believe there to be very few errors I think that the shape created by my hair at the ends of the padding could have been improved as the sides did not match, leaving it almost looking wonky. I believe this could have been improved by leaving more hair free before being put up, and more backcombing. I also believe that there could have been more communication throughout, for example questions regarding temperature of tools against my head and the tightness of hair pulling. Overall I think that the assessment was good and my design was mostly carried out how I intended.

My Hair Design

My Hair Design

My Two Other Designs

Before creating my final design I had already experimented with two other ideas. In the end I decided not to use these as I felt that they did not reflect the Elizabethans enough, this feeling was also reflected by my teacher in a feedback session. I also did not think they were exciting or original. I am happy with my decision not to use them as I feel my final design was far better.

One Of My Designs

One Of My Designs

Timed Assessment In The Role Of The Stylist

In this week's timed assessment I was the hair stylist. Before the timed assessment, during practices, I was struggling with the hair design created by my partner. I found some of the techniques involved difficult to carry out, and struggled to make it look neat and professional. Due to the changes involved during the practices I only managed to complete the design once on my partner but I also practised on my false hair doll. Going into the assessment I was worried that I would not be able to sufficiently and competently carry out the design. However, during the assessment, once I got into the design, I felt really comfortable and the felt far more easy and my practices had clearly helped. I think that I carried out the design well, and compared to the practices it was neat and looked like a finished style. The look involved attaching a metal head piece into the hair, using only pins and hair. Although I had not previously struggled much with this technique I feel that I carried it out the best I had done and the best I could during the timed assessment. Padding was another aspect of the design that I had to carry out; I had previously found it difficult to cover and gain the height that was needed for the design. However when creating the look for the final time I managed to achieve the height and cover the padding reasonably well. I believe that the padding could have been covered more, but I did not leave enough hair out of padding to cover the rest. Another aspect of the design that I believe that I could have improved upon was covering and concealing pins. I like to use kirby grips as I feel that they hold the most secure grip, however they are harder to cover and I think that in the assessment this aspect could have been improved. I think this assessment taught me not to doubt myself so much and have faith in my skills. Overall I think that the assessment was a success and after previous worries I actually found it quite enjoyable.

The Hair Style I Created

The Hair Style I Created

The Hair Style I Created

The Hair Style I Created

Practising For The Timed Assessment As The Designer

In this week's seminar my partner and I were practicing my hair design. This practice session was very successful, my partner grasped my ideas quickly and was able to carry the design out very well technically. The end result was better than I expected and I liked my design more than I thought I would. My design changed slightly but not drastically throughout the process; I simply made the plaits that hold the padding in place visible at the sides, just to add some more detail and effect to the overall  look. It also became clear that the padding was too large for the design so that will be reduced in size for the timed assessment. Overall I am pleased with the design and think after these slight changes it will be successful.

My Design

Practising For The Timed Assessment - As The Stylist

In this week's practical lesson I was practising my partner's hair design for next week's timed assessment. There were parts of the design that I thought were easy to create and other parts that I struggled with. During the practise session it became clear that  some areas of the design did not work and therefore it changed slightly to give the desired effect and work with my model's hair.

Practise

Practise 

My Contemporary Hair Design

I decided that in my design the whole head of hair is going to be crimped. I think that this is an important part of Elizabethan style and it appears many times within Elizabethan portraiture and is also a good way of getting volume and texture within the hair. I have also seen crimped hair in contemporary situations for example on the red carpet and catwalk, showing that it can be seen as both traditional and contemporary. I also wanted to have padding in my hair design as it is a technique that we have practised repeatedly during the lessons and I like the effect and height that it can give hair styles. This height was very important within Elizabethan portraiture. I have decided to put the padding on the top of the head and have the hair from the front of the head being wrapped over it and gathered as a ponytail at the back. The ponytail will then be fish tail plaited and tucked back under itself as seen in the image below. I think that fishtail plaits are also very beautiful and have recently become a popular alternative form of plait. I wanted to incorporate this into the back of my design to add some interest and detail. I also liked the idea of adding a head band of some kind into my design to act as a more contemporary French Hood. This will be decorated with pearls as they feature heavily in Elizabethan portriature within the hair.

Fishtail Plait Tucked Up

My Hair Design

My Hair Design 

Hair Accessories Inspiration

For my contemporary design I want to add a hair band decorated with pearls. Although I want to create my own design I have been researching images of bands already created to get some inspiration. I have also been researching and looking at images where pearls have been added to the hair. 

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/123637952242140078/

http://www.yourcoffeebreak.co.uk/beauty/25640840621/summer-wedding-hairstyles-from-leo-bancroft/

http://glambistro.com/10235/5-posh-ways-to-wear-headbands/

http://beadsnob.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/chanelpearl.html

Ursula Stephens

Ursula Stephens is a celebrity hair stylist and has worked with some of pop's most famous women including Rihanna and Mary J Blige, and some of the most famous photographers including Mert and Marcus. She has also created hair for numerous magazine front covers. I have been studying her work and have found different styles that to me resemble Elizabethan hair. I will take her work in consideration when designing my contemporary Elizabethan look.

Sources: http://www.ursulastephen.com/about/

Ursula Stephen Hair
http://www.ursulastephen.com/beauty/

Inspiration

As well as contemporary hair I have also been studying the hair styles that were seen within Elizabethan portraiture, this has helped me to keep my ideas Elizabethan based without straying into unrecognisable contemporary designs. I particually like this painting of Anne Boleyn in which she is wearing a French Hood. I like the idea of adding an accessory into the hair within my design, and this French Hood has acted as inspiration.

Anne Boleyn
 http://www.theanneboleynfiles.com/anne-boleyn-french-hood-now-available/
   

Inspiration

After doing research of contemporary Elizabethan hair I found this image. To me it represents traditional fashions and trends but gives it a more up to date look. I think it is a style that I will bear in mind when creating my final design. It also reminded me of the hair in the portrait below of Queen Elizabeth I where the loose pieces of hair they have been plaited.

http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/236x/23/f9/73/23f9730a2b2d67a780702ab1589ebc31.jpg

https://historyofeuropeanfashion.wordpress.com

Hair Washing

Prepping for Washing

Towel around the clients shoulders

Gown

Check water temperature on wrist

If model has thin hair use a small amount of conditioner- can always add more

If dry use less shampoo- can always add more

Condition the mid lengths and ends of hair

1. Get client to lean their head back into the sink

2. Dampen the hair all the way through

3. Put some shampoo in your hand, with the size according to the type of hair.

4. Add it into the ends of the hair and massage it through the top of the hair and the scalp.

5. Make sure you go up under the hair to clean all the head.

6. If the shampoo is not lathering then add some water to try to help it.

7. If this is not working add some more shampoo to the hair.

8. Rinse the shampoo thoroughly. 

9. Add conditioner to the hair focusing on the ends of the hair.

10. Comb the hair while the conditioner is in it, this will help to get through knots.

11. Thoroughly wash out the conditioner and wrap the hair in a towel.

Contra Indindications and Contra Actions

Contra Indication

A Contra Indication may prevent or stop treatment from taking place

For example

•     Heavy dandruff
•   Alopecia
•  Psoriasis

Contra Action

Something that happens during washing or styling that has to be dealt with

For example

•   A burn from a hot tool
•       Reaction to a product

Hair Consultations

Ask the models name

Ask what type of hair model has so you can treat it accordingly

Analyse the length of hair, ask if the hair is real or fake

Ask if the hair is coloured or if is natural, if it is coloured you may need to treat it differently, for example putting tools such as curlers on a cooler setting. Also see if hair is dry

Ask if the model has any allergies, this can therefore help you if you need to find alternative products

Ask if the model is on medication, this can alter and effect the hair

Practicing My Contemporary Looks

In this week's lesson we were practicing contemporary looks. I began by carrying out one of my original ideas, which can be seen in the first image. However I thought that once it was actually created on the head it was not a very interesting look and I didn't think that it linked well enough to the Elizabethans. I then decided to try to add a fishtail braid to the design, but I wanted it to look neat and  add some interest to the back of the hair. As previously posted I had found one look involving a fishtail plait and wanted to draw inspiration from that. After a few different tries and looks I decided I was most pleased with the plait pictured below.

Hair Style Experimentation 

The Plait Style I liked The Most 

Inspiration

I have been researching different contemporary hair looks that to me resemble Elizabethan hair styles. These images have acted as inspiration when creating and designing my hair looks.

This acted as inspiration for me as it incorporated a plait and bun, both of which I have been learning about, and regularly appears in Elizabethan portraiture.  https://www.pinterest.com/hairofglory/hairstyles/

I liked this image as the whole thing reminded me of the Elizabethans, it also incorporates a head band which I also am interested in using in my design. http://www.hairromance.com/2013/02/nyfw-hair-trend-braids.html

I like this image as it instantly reminded me of the Elizabethans, I like the texture that has been gained in the hair and I think it is something that I might like to use in my design. http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/high-roller-by-pascual

This image straight away reminded me of the Elizabethans mostly due to the make up, however I like the hair and think it is a nice contemporary version of Elizabethan style, I will keep this design in mind when creating my look. http://www.theenglishgroup.co.uk/blog/2012/07/31/laura-carmichael-by-mert-marcus/

Practising Elizabethan Hair Styles

In this week's practical lesson we continued to practise traditional Elizabethan styles. This week was the first week that I managed to complete a look as I normally struggle with adding the padding. I am please that I finished but know from looking at the images that I need to continue practising. However I know now that I have the basic skills to build on.

Adding Padding To The Hair

In this week's lesson we were learning how to add padding into crimped hair so that different styles and looks could be achieved, such as crowns of hair and heart shapes, such as the style below.

Heart Hair
http://onehotchildinthecity.blogspot.co.uk/2010/01/i-heart-hair-hearts.html

Method: 

If required curl the front sections of hair, 2-3 lines

Crimp the rest of the hair or half a head

Lift up the hair to find where the anchor point should go

French plait the area and twist back on itself onto the head, add Kirby grips

Get the padding and attach it to the plait tightly piercing the tight

Wrap the crimped hair around the padding and pin using Kirby grips

If you are not using a lot of hair you can also start wrapping from the bottom 

If you want to do a heart shape, add the padding onto the side of the head and wrap over

Can plait the back of the hair if required 

Elizabethan Society, Who Is Wearing These Hairstyles?

In the Elizabethan era look and style were very important. It was mainly the people from the higher classes who opted for the latest hair looks during this time. In the book 'Fashions In Hair The First Five Thousand Years' by Richard Corson it says how blonde and light hair was a fashionable look and describes how it was achieved. It also discusses the problems with this trend such as hair becoming weak at the root, due to the use of harsh chemicals, and breaking off. He then goes on to say how 'Working-class women were, of course, spared all this.'

Young and single women within high society usually wore their hair down and uncovered to show that they were single and pure.

Wigs and many other hair pieces were used to add length, density and shape to the hair. Accessories such as coifs and french hoods were also popular during this time period. They could be used to add a look to hair but also to cover it, as usually done by grown and married women.

Coifs

A coif is a hair covering using a close fitting cap. It could be very simple or very elaborate. According to the website 'elizabethancostume.net' it had a very important role for society as 'conferring respectability upon women, and for the more skilled and affluent people, for decoration.'

A Coif
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/coif.html

French Hood

A french hood was a piece of material fashioned into a rounded shape, it was worn over the top of a coif, and a large black veil was attached to the back. Anne Boleyn introduced it into England during the tudor period. 

Anne Boleyn In A French Hood
http://www.theanneboleynfiles.com/anne-boleyn-french-hood-now-available/

Curling,Crimping And Frizzing

In this week's practical lesson we were learning how to curl, crimp and frizz hair using different methods and hot tools.

Curling

Method:

1.       Take a small section of hair
2.    Put hair into the clamp roll up - hold for a few seconds
3.       Release one section
4.       Wiggle and pull hair out of tong
5.       Put pin in to keep in place
6.       Alternate hair direction
7.    Roll down the cooled hair from the pins 
8.      Release hair upwards on top of the head to keep the volume
9.    If a downwards curl is required lay the barrel flat

     

Curled Hair

Elizabethan Curled Hair
http://queenanneboleyn.com/2014/06/26/qab-book-review-the-marriage-game-by-alison-weir/

Contemporary Curled Hair
http://vintagevicar22.wordpress.com/2013/02/12/my-hair-featured-in-catwalk-show/

        Crimping
         
          Method:

1. Get a hair strand the same width as the crimper
2. Crimp hair with the crimper
3. Release after 5-10 seconds
4. Repeat process down the hair without pulling too hard on the crimped hair

Crimped Hair

Crimped Elizabethan Hair
https://www.awesomestories.com/asset/view/A-Portrait-of-Elizabeth-I-of-England

Contemporary Crimped Hair
http://www.hji.co.uk/hair/big-hair-at-berlin-fashion-week/

  Frizzing

       Method:

1.        Take a medium section of hair
2.     Get a long thin hair pin
3.         Figure of 8 around the pin
4.     At the end continue figure of 8, wrap simply around or leave loose - fasten with Kirby grip
5.       Hold straightener on the hair around the pin, pull pin out once cool and comb to get the frizz

Frizzed Hair

Frizzed Elizabethan Hair
http://nttreasurehunt.wordpress.com/2012/11/20/it-girls-of-the-elizabethan-age/

Contemporary Frizzed Hair
http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/topshop-unique-spring-2011